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how to grow a weed free lawn

I do a full weed killer spray on my lawn about every three to four years. However, though I may be adding a fair bit of weed killer it is only once every three years. Imagine the amount of weed killer chemicals you would have put in with a ‘weed and feed’ product once, twice or even three times every year! And I bet you now have far fewer weeds, a healthier lawn and a safer environment!

Take care of incidental weeds with regular ‘spot treatments’ of weed killer or by hand weeding. Keeping on top of the weeds is the key as one seeding weed will suddenly escalate the problem. I like to carry a ready to use spot sprayer whenever I mow the lawn. A quick zap as it passes beneath me is all it takes.

There is nothing tricky about this though you should observe the same safety procedures as for concentrate. Read the label and use pesticides safely.

Spot treating lawn weeds

Once you’re into year 2 of your lawn care programme you should have eliminated 98% of the lawn weeds. This may happen in year 1 if you started with a fairly weed free lawn. A small seed bank may remain but other than that most weed occurrences are due to seeds landing in your lawn.

Over time, with some adverse weather, perhaps a lot of lawn activity and a little neglect due to holidays or work you will start to find a build-up of weeds again. If this is more than is sensible to take care of with the spot weeder then out with the watering can or knapsack sprayer and do a ‘full lawn treatment’.

Lawn weed killers such as Resolva or Weedol (previously known as Verdone) are selective and only kill weeds at the proper dosage. Over dose by squirting too much and you’ll damage or even kill the grass. Therefore, squirt according to the instructions; if you didn’t squirt enough you’ll know in a couple of weeks and then adjust your dosage for future squirting.

How to grow a weed free lawn

Like most landscape plantings lawns can suffer from a variety of ailments. Weeds, bare spots, insects and diseases can weaken and, if left untreated, can quickly ruin a healthy lawn. Keep a close eye out for problems in your lawn.

Begin by cutting grass with a sharp mower blade that cuts grass cleanly, without tearing or shredding. Proper mowing height depends on the type of grass you are growing. Cut the grass when it reaches about one–third higher than the recommended mowing height. If you do so, you can leave the clipping on the lawn and they will quickly breakdown, adding nutrients and organic matter without building thatch. Vary your mowing pattern to avoid creating ruts. And don’t mow when soil is wet. You can damage the lawn and mess up your mower.

Compacted soils prevent air and water from reaching grass roots, resulting in and unhealthy lawn.

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Different types of grass grow best in different parts of the country. Warm-season grasses are usually best adapted to warmer, more southerly regions. They include Bahiagrass, Bermudagrass, Carpetgrass, St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass. Cool-season grasses are usually grown in colder, more northerly regions but are also adapted to many mild winter areas. They include Fescues, Kentucky Bluegrass and Ryegrasses. Even within these two basic types of grasses, there are varieties that may be better adapted to one area than another. Check with your local Cooperative Extension System office to find out which grasses grow best in your area.

Before you start a fertilizer program, perform a soil test so you are absolutely sure which nutrients, and how much, need to be applied. Soils may also be acidic or alkaline and require additions of iron, magnesium or lime. Also, different kinds of grasses need to be fertilized at different times of the year. Contact your local Cooperative Extension System office for help developing the right fertilizer program for your lawn.

One weed leads to many more, so deal with weeds as soon as you notice them. Discover why weed control is key and how to do it successfully.

Grow the Right Type of Grass

Mow Correctly